The life we know, what we were taught in school and what is in our books has witnessed very important events in our universal history, from wars to revolutions and thousands of other events. However, far from the great events, the dress style Each era also tells a story, marking generations and their social, cultural and economic contexts.
XIX century, in particular, witnessed a number of significant changes. This century was characterized by a revolution in fashion, reflecting the political, social and economic changes that accompanied industrialization and technological advances. To identify an era, we always look at the way people of those years dressed, and the 19th century is no exception.
Men's clothing in the 19th century
During the 19th century, men's fashion underwent a very particular evolution. During this period, clothing stopped being as colorful and ostentatious as it had been in previous centuries, and instead focused on more sober and functional silhouettes. This occurred in part due to the rise of the bourgeoisie and its ideals associated with industrialization and work.
The men of the bourgeoisie They often wore tailcoats, a garment that became more form-fitting over time. At the beginning of the century, the silhouette left room for wide shoulder pads, waistcoats and wide ties or bow ties. However, as the decade progressed, tailcoats would become more form-fitting, with shorter waistcoats and oversized ties. As for footwear and accessories, high boots in formal settings and tall hats were common.
Apart from the tailcoat, other types of clothing included the levite, a long, tight-fitting jacket that was common among the upper classes. Men who were not so wealthy tended to wear silk sashes and simpler jackets, although the frock coat also found its place among the middle classes through less luxurious imitations.
The manly aspect also included the use of long hair and curly, prominent mustaches and sideburns, so many elements that began to symbolize the status and fashion of the moment.
At the end of the 19th century, the use of the top hat became widespread in the West, thanks to the influence of English fashion, dominated by Queen Victoria.
Women's clothing in the 19th century
Meanwhile, women's clothing undergoes massive changes throughout the century. At the beginning of the century, women adopted the style of empire clothing, a style characterized by tight cuts just below the bust, leaving the rest of the garments to flow more loosely.
Then the style became more voluminous as dolls, And the skirts made of up to 14 meters of fabric became a decisive trend in the era. Likewise, silk mantillas and combs They were key accessories to a woman's style and the fashion designers of the time never ceased to innovate with the best quality embroidery and fabrics. A woman's style had to stand out at all times.
Throughout the century, women also incorporated new structures into the shape of skirts, such as the hooped petticoat, which gave rise to a greater variety of textures and shapes. In fact, the controversial crinoline and its evolution, bustle, marked the second half of the 19th century.
The style Mirañaque appeared in the middle of the century, allowing an evolution towards simpler and less cumbersome designs. Women could now move more freely without sacrificing the traditional hourglass silhouette. The style Bustle emerged later, and facilitated a transition toward dresses that were tighter on the upper body, with two separate pieces—the bodice and the skirt—which offered new opportunities to customize and stylize the outfit.
The impact of the Industrial Revolution on fashion
With the advent of Industrial RevolutionAt the end of the 19th century, the field of clothing was profoundly influenced. Technological advances allowed the creation and mass production of new fabrics, and what was previously reserved for the upper class was now accessible to a considerable part of the population. This was a key point in the democratization of fashion.
From the 70s onwards, women began to wear more comfortable dresses made of more flexible fabrics, while menswear trends became more practical, prioritising comfort and mobility without sacrificing personal style. Tailored suits and day dresses became popular among the working classes.
This also allowed fashion to change from season to season, a phenomenon that had not occurred in previous centuries with the same intensity. Fashion publications began to play a crucial role in the dissemination of new trends, especially in Western Europe.
Fashion and haute couture in the 19th century
The 19th century not only saw the emergence of more functional garments, but also the birth of the couture. The designer Charles Frederick Worth He is generally considered one of the fathers of this movement, which brought about the personalization of garments and the beginning of the great fashion houses. Worth published collections twice a year, designing clothes for the Empress Eugénie and other prominent figures of the time.
The emergence of renowned designers, such as Worth and later Emile Pingat In France, it would define a completely different style in this period, where women of the aristocracy and the upper bourgeoisie went to the salons to choose their dresses. Seasons and trends dictated what would be worn.
The appearance of specialized magazines such as the Journal of Ladies and Fashion He regularly provided images and descriptions of new collections, contributing to the rapid spread of Parisian fashions to other places such as London, Vienna and Madrid.
In short, the style of dress in the 19th century became a direct reflection of an era of industrial, political and social change. From the luxurious suits of the upper bourgeoisie and the aristocracy, to the refined outfits of the humblest classes, fashion was a witness and protagonist of these events.